May 26, 2017

Via Francigena

Via Francigena pilgrimage.

28/May/2017 to 02/Jul/2017.




Intinerary :
Pavia  -  Orio Litta  -  Piacenza  -  Fiorenzuola d'Arda  -  Fidenza  -  Fornovo di Taro  -  Cassio  -  Passo della Cisa  -  Pontremoli  -  Aulla  -  Marina di Carrara  -  Pietrasanta  -  Lucca  -  Altopascio  -  San Miniano  -  Gambassi Terme  -  San Gimignano  -  Montereggioni  -   Siena  -  Ponte d'Arbia  -  San Quirico d'Orcia  -  Radicofani  -  Acquapendente  -  Bolsena  -  Montefiascone  -  Viterbo  -  Vetralla  -  Sutri  -  Campagnano di Roma  -  La Storta  -  Rome.




A one month pilgrimage along the VIA FRANCIGENA, from Pavia to Rome.
The Via Francigena is the common name of an ancient road and pilgrim route running from France to Rome.
The route was known in Italy as the "Via Francigena" ("the road that comes from France"). In mediaeval times it was an important road and pilgrimage route for those wishing to visit the Holy See and the tombs of the apostles Peter and Paul.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_Francigena
http://www.viefrancigene.org/en/ 

CLICK HERE to continue on the FRANCIGENA DEL SUD post (Rome to Brindisi, 2018) 





Sunday 21/Aug/2016  (i.e. 9 months prior to all of the other legs).

Pavia to Belgioioso hike.


Pavia's famous Ponte Coperto (covered bridge) .
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pavia


Pavia, San Michele Maggiore church,
finished in 1155 for Frederick Barbarossa's coronation.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Michele_Maggiore,_Pavia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederick_I,_Holy_Roman_Emperor



Pavia's duomo pavement labyrinth.



by

|---| Karolien's house, Milano.




Sunday 28/May/2017  (ie. 9 months after the previous leg...).

Abbey of Chiaravalle. 
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiaravalle_Abbey






The 'knotted' column.
The four pillars and the suggested 'node' are cut from one single granite block.

|---| Karolien's house, Milano.




Monday 29/May/2017.

Milano.

|---| Karolien's house, Milano.




Tuesday 30/May/2017.

Belgioioso to Orio Litta hike, 34km.

Belgioioso train station,
starting point of this year's Via Francigena pilgrimage.

Belgioioso castle.

Gravel mining interrupts the trail.  One must make a big detour.

Some kilometers with fellow pilgrim Gabriele (Swiss). 



Santa Cristina church in Santa Cristina e Bissone.
First meeting with pilgrim Stephany (US).

Finally a spot with some shade,
suitable for picnic. 

Picnic. 

A Lourdes cave

Castello di Chignolo Po, from the Visconti family.

Sant Antonio da Padova church in Lambrinia.

Leaving the main road for the embankment along the Lambro river, tributary of the Po.

Villa Litta Carini in Orio Litta 17th Century.

No more legs after 34km...

|---| Hospitium Pellegrini nel Grangio Benedettini, Orio Litta (hostel dorm).




Wednesday 31/May/2017.

Orio Litta to Piacenza hike.


Leaving Orio-Litta's luxury pilgrim hostel.

Entering Corte Sant Andrea.

Taking the "Transitum Padi", the pilgrim's ferry on the river Po.
The boatman, Danilo Parisi, organises the crossing twice a day.

Crossing the river Po for some kilometers.

Disembarked near to the boatman's house.

The boatman putting the 'Timbro' on the credential.

Meeting Japanese pilgrims walking the opposite direction,
on their 3 months pilgrimage from Rome to Santiago de Compostella.

Guided crossing of the next river, on foot this time.  

Piacenza, main square.

Piacenza, duomo.


Piacenza, duomo (side view).

Piacenza's duomo pavement labyrinth.

|---| Hotel Astor, Piacenza (hotel room).



Thursday 01/Jun/2017.

Piacenza to Fiorenzuola d'Arda hike.


Almost the whole day along rural roads.
Quite boring.

An old Roman milestone.

Huge farms.


An excellent picnic.

Another river crossing.


Entering Fiorenzuola d'Arda.

Fiorenzuola d'Arda's duomo.

Nice hotel.

Nice dinner.

|---| Albergo Osteria Mathis, Fiorenzuola d'Arda (hotel room).




Friday 02/Jun/2017.

Fiorenzuola d'Arda to Fidenza hike.


Meeting an Indian lost in Italy.

A welcome italian cafè and Corona beer.

Cistercian Abbey of Chiaravalle della Colomba, 12th Century.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abbey_of_Chiaravalle_della_Colomba

Once more a knotted column.





Fidenza, town hall.

Fidenza, San Donnino duomo.

Bas relief depicting pilgrims.


Saint Domninus of Fidenza.
Beheaded, he picked up his head and, crossed the river,
and placed on the future site of the cathedral.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Domninus_of_Fidenza

|---| Hotel Due Spade, Fidenza (hotel room).




Saturday 03/Jun/2017.

Fidenza to Fornovo di Taro hike.





Few times, the Via Francigena have options,
in this case the slightly longer path to the right avoids asphalt roads.

Along the longer option.

Sant Andrea Bagni.

Bridge over the Taro river.

Fornovo di Taro, Santa Maria Assunta church,
with the 8th century basreliefs:
the pilgrim (headless) and the punishment of the avars.

The punishment of the avars.

|---| Ostello Parrocchiale, Fornovo di Taro (hostel dorm).



Sunday 04/Jun/2017.

Fornovo di Taro to Cassio hike.


Sivvizano's bar, serving "buon cafè".

Bardone.

Terenzo, coffin cemetery.

Casola.




Entering Cassio.

Dormitory.

Dinner.


|---| Ostello Pellegrini, Cassio (hostel dorm).




Monday 05/Jun/2017.

Cassio to Passo della Cisa hike.


Leaving the well equiped Ostello of Cassio.






Descent to Bercetto.




Berceto, pilgrim monument.

Berceto, duomo.

Berceto, stained glass window representing a pilgrim.

Near to the mountain pass, the turn off for the ostello

The ostello, an old roadman house.

Ostello.

Offering a 95 degrees drink to the hospitaliero
(acquired 2nd of June at the Chiaravalle della Colomba Cistercian abbey),
learning here that a lot of water must be added, as for pastis.

|---| Ostello della Casa Grossa, Passo della Cisa (hostel dorm).



Tuesday 06/Jun/2017.

Passo della Cisa to Pontremoli hike.


Entering in Tuscany in the fog.


Also here, an alternative route is proposed,
we took the red option.


Lunch: excellently cooked local dish "Testaroli".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Testaroli

Pontremoli.

Pontremoli.

Pilgrims chapel.

Pontremoli's stone carved vertical finger labyrinth
(picture stolen from the internet).

|---| Convento dei Padri Cappuccini, Pontremoli (individual room).




Wednesday 07/Jun/2017.

Pontremoli to Aulla hike.


Leaving Pontremoli, Pinocchio monument.

Oratorio di Pizzo Mogano, Filattiera.

Guy selling his christmas cribs sculpted in nutshells and shells,


Borgo di Filetto, a tiny medieval walled city.

Borgo di Filetto, a tiny medieval walled city.


A new pilgrim bridge.

Picnic.

Spring water at Virgoletta.


Ostello.

|---| Ostello Parrocchiale Don Giovanni, Aulla (hostel dorm).




Thursday 08/Jun/2017.

Aulla to Marina di Carrara (Avenza) hike.


Leaving Aulla.


Funny exchanges with a local.





Sarzana, asking the priest for a blessing.

Sarzana.

Sarzana.


|---| Hotel Nonna Piera, Marina di Carrara (cabin).




Friday 09/Jun/2017.

Marina di Carrara to Pietrasanta hike.


Marina di Carrara,
marble blocks are used to protect the little harbour..

Marina di Massa.

Marina di Massa, market day.

Massa.

Massa.

Massa.

Massa.



Carrara marble block sawing.



Fernando Botero sculpture "The Warrior", at the town entrance.

Fernando Botero, satirical frescoes,
"La Porta del Inferno".

Farnando Botero, satirical frescoes,
"La porta del paradiso".
Mother Teresa looking a bit plump.


Pietrasanta.

|---| Albergo Stipino, Pietrasanta (hotel room).




Saturday 10/Jun/2017.

Pietrasanta to Lucca hike.









Entering Lucca, after a long, long, hike.

Lucca's San Michele church.

Lucca's Duomo.

Duomo, funny details.

Twisted columns.

Dramatic sunset behind San Michele.

|---| Veronica (rbnb), Lucca (room).




Sunday 11/Jun/2017.

Lucca to Altopascio hike.


Lucca, Piazza dell Anfiteatro, known as the"Oval Square",
the right place for breakfast.

Lucca, Basilica di San Frediano.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_San_Frediano

Leaving Lucca with a lasst glimpse on the B&B terrace.


The hotel for tonight.

Chiesa di San Jacopo, dating back to the eleventh Century,
formed part of the hospice ofthe Knights of Tau
(originally with a single nave).

"Tau" fresco.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Order_of_Saint_James_of_Altopascio

|---| Hotel Paola, Altopascio (room).




Monday 12/Jun/2017.

Altopascio to San Miniato hike.




Fucecchio.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fucecchio

San Miniato Basso.
Someone put a table with pilgrim food and drinks.

Thank you !!!

San Miniato, Palazzo del Seminario.

San Miniato, Duomo.

Switched for an overnight place with swimming pool.

|---| Ostello San Miniato, San Miniato  Al Tedesco, San Miniato (apartment).




Tuesday 13/Jun/2017.

San Miniato to Gambassi hike.


Leaving San Miniato.





Lunch.

Gambassi, street performance.

Pinocchio sits on top of the church bell.

The B&B and restaurant for tonight.

Excellent dinner

|---| Casa Elena, Gambassi Terme (room).



Wednesday 14/Jun/2017.

Gambassi to San Gimignano hike.


Leaving San Gimignano.



Sanctuary at Pancole.


Monastero di Bose, Pieve di Cellole.


San Gimignano.

|---| Locanda il Pino, San Gimignano (hotel).



Thursday 15/jun/2017.

San Gimignano to Montereggioni hike.


Leaving San Gimignano in the early morning.






Le Vene, Botro degli Strulli.

Excellent swimming spot.

Clay bath detox, with funny Georgia.

Abbadia Isola, Abbazia dei Santi Salvatore e Cirino, 12th Century.

Abbadia Isola, Abbazia dei Santi Salvatore e Cirino.

Montereggione, walled tiny medieval town.

Still 300km to Rome.

The Ostello.



|---| Casa per ferie Santa Maria Assunta, Montereggioni (hostel room).




Friday 16/Jun/2017.

Montereggioni to Siena hike.



Castle of La Chiocciola, 14th Century.


Resting place for pilgrims
(private initiative).

Lago Scomparso, the "Obelisco",
witnessing the efforts to drain a marsh building underground canals.

View on Siena.


|---| Camere d'Epoca Siena, Siena (apartment room).




Saturday 17/Jun/2017.

Siena.

|---| Camere d'Epoca Siena, Siena
 (apartment room).




Sunday 18/Jun/2017.

Siena to Ponte d'Arbia hike.


Leaving Siena.






Arriving at the overbooked ostello for tonight.

Dinner, quattro stagioni pizza as primo.

Dinner, "Pici" pasta as secondo,
also with a second bottle of wine.

|---| Centro Cresti, Ponte d'Arbia (hostel dorm).




Monday 19/Jun/2017.

Ponte d'Arbia to San Quirico d'Orcia hike.




Buonconvento.

Vineyards.



Approaching San Quirico d'Orcia.

San Quirico d'Orcia.

San Quirico d'Orcia church, knotted columns...

Sunset.

|---| Hotel Palazzuolo, San Quirico d'Orcia (hotel room).




Tuesday 20/Jun/2017.

San Quirico d'Orcia to Radicofani hike.

Leaving the hotel.


Bagno Vignone,
Roman hot water spring, 49°C water.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bagno_Vignoni 




Still eight long kilometers to climb to Radicofani.

Radicofani, at the top of the extinguished volcano,
still one long hour away.

Pilgrims welcome.

Radicofani, by night.


|---| Rifigio Communale Alceo Gestri, Radicofani (hostel room).



Wednesday 21/Jun/2017.
Radicofani to Acquapendente hike.


Yesterday night's excellent restaurant.

Leaving Radicofani,
with a sea of clouds in the valley.

Pilgrims Tine (Netherlands) and Lara (Czech).
Radicofani is on top the extinguished volcano, in the center ofthe picture.

Galileo Galilei, Father of the Sience,
stayed here for plague quarantine, on his way to Rome for the inquisiton.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galileo_Galilei



Acquapendente.

Acquapendente, clock tower.

The hotel for tonight.

Excellent porcini mushrooms dinner at the hotel.

|---| Il Borgo, Acquapendente (hotel room).




Thursday 22/Jun/2017.

Acquapendente to Bolsena hike.


Leaving Acquapendente.

Leaving Acquapendente.








Bolsena.

Bolsena.



Bolsena

|---| Le Naiadi Park Hotel Sul Lago, Bolsena.




Friday 23/Jun/2017.

Bolsena to Montefiascone hike.




Lago di Vico.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Vico



Another (cheap) Est, Est,Est wine !
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Est!_Est!!_Est!!!_di_Montefiascone





Duomo. 



In front of the Monastero San Pietro,
with the two Benectine nuns taking care of the pilgrims.
http://www.monasterosanpietromontefiascone.com/


|---| Monastero San Pietro, Montefiascone.




Saturday 24/Jun/2017.

Montefiascone to Viterbo hike.


Leaving Monte Fiascone.


Kiwi farm.

Original roman pavement.


Natural hot springs along the Via.




Viterbo.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viterbo

Church of Gonfalone. 


|---|  Tuscia Hotel, Viterbo.




Sunday 25/Jun/2017.

Viterbo to Vetralla hike.



San Ilario e Valentino.

Resting place built by a local pilgram,
after having walked to Santiagode Compostella.


San Francesco church, Vetralla.



|---| Locanda Dal Sor Francesco, Vetralla (hotel).




Monday 26/Jun/2017.

Vetralla to Sutri hike.



Lago de Vico.

Santa Lucia.

Lago de Vico.

Ronciglione.

Ronciglione.


|---| B&B Romantica Evasione, Sutri.




Tuesday 27/Jun/2017.

Sutri to Campagnano di Roma hike.


Breakfast at Romantica Evasione.








Cascate di Monte Gelato,
excellent picnic spot.

Campagnano di Roma, town hall.

Preparing dinner.


|---| Via Francigena cottage, Campagnano di Roma (little house).




Wednesday 28/Jun/2017.

Campagnano to La Storta hike.


Santuario della Madonna del Sorbo.

Entering the Parco di Veio.

Parco di Veio entrance.

Taking the new alternative route "Pont Sodo" (purple).




|---| Casa delle Suore delle Poverelle, La Storta  Seven Hills Village, La Storta (camping cabin).




Thursday 29/Jun/2017.

La Storta to Roma by train.




Lara (Czech), Philippe (France), Stephany (US), and myself (Belgium).
Stephany hiked most of the Via Francigena in our company.

|---| Trastevere, Roma (apartment).




Friday 30/Jun/2017.

ROMA.

|---| Trastevere, Roma (apartment).




Saturday 01/Jul/2017.

ROMA. (apartment)

|---| Trastevere, Roma 
(apartment).



Sunday 02/Jul/2017.

Roma to home journey.


Last minute picture, before each of us departing home.

Thank-You letter for Franca from Romantica Evazione (B&B of 26th of June).

Landed in Marseille.

|---| Home.