AGAIN AND AGAIN.
22/Feb/2016 to 28/Mar/2016.
This Itinerary :
Pushkar - Jaisalmer - Chittorgarh - Bundi - Ujjain - Mandu - Maheshwar - Omkareshwar - Sanchi - Jabalpur - Amarkantak - Varanasi - Bodhgaya - Madhuban (Parasnath Hill) - Puri/Konark - Kolkata - Sunderbans - New-Delhi.
CLICK HERE for my next 2018 India posts (a new window will be opened)
Pushkar - Jaipur&Amber - Chittorgarh - Udaipur - Ranakpur Kumbhalgarh - Patan (stepwell) - Modhera (Sun Temple) - Little Kuch (Wild Ass sanctuary) - Gondal - Junagadh (Girnar Hill) - Sasan Gir NP - Somnath - Diu - Palitana (Shatrunjaya mountain) - Bhavnagar (Blackbuck NP) - Mumbai.
CLICK HERE for my prior 2015 India posts (a new window will be opened)
Pushkar – Bundi – Ranthambore National Park – Orchha – Khajuraho – Chitrakoot – Allahabad – Varanasi – Tala (Bandhavgarh National Park) – Omkareshwar – Indore – New-Delhi.
CLICK HERE for my prior 2013 India posts (a new window will be opened)
Mumbai - Goa - Hampi - Fort-Kochi - Backwaters - Munnar - Trivandrum - Kanyakumari - Madurai - Trichy - Puducherry - Tiruvannamalai - Hyderabad - Nagarjunakonda - Ellora&Ajanta - Udaipur - Ranakpur - Jodhpur - Pushkar - Jaipur - Agra - Delhi - Amritsar - Dharamsala&McLeod-Ganj - Chandigarh - Rishikesh - Auli - Mussoorie - New-Delhi.
1 € = 71 Rs (Indian Rupee)
1 US$ = 67 Rs
1 US$ = 67 Rs
1 Rs = 1.4 € cent = 1.5 US$ cent.
Indian Time = European Time + 4.5 hour.
Indian Time = European Time + 4.5 hour.

(Click to EXIT)
Wednesday 22/Feb/2017.
Home to India Journey.
All four flights MRS-IST, IST-DEL, DEL-IST, and IST-MRS together,
441€ with Turkish Airlines.
441€ with Turkish Airlines.
| Aix-en-Provence Bus Terminal, ready (and happy) to take the Airport Shuttle. |
| Marseille airport, ready to board the plane. |
| Marseille-Istanbul flight, economic meal... Excellent seat 23A, with a generous leg space thanks to the emergeny exit. |
| Istanbul-Delhi flight. another economic meal (more tasty however). Again a seat with additional leg space ! |
| Leaving New-Delhi's airport to take the first metro (two more lineswill follow). |
| Delhi's Sarai Rohilla train station, the Garib Rath Express train, catched with only 40 minutes margin. |
| Garib Rath Express' lunch, tasty and spicy. |
|---| Treebo Pushkar Legacy, 16€/n including breakfast.
Friday 24/Feb/2017.
Pushkar.
| Pushkar, Main Market. Happy to be here again (my 3rd visit to Pushkar). |
| Pushkar, shopping streets. |
| Pushkar, entrance to the holy lake. |
| Children awaiting the arriving Shiva procession. |
| Here they come! |
Countryside walk to Aloo Baba Ashram (8km from Pushkar).
| A "GARDEN RESTAURENT". |
| Aloo Baba temple, reached after 7km. |
| Aloo Baba temple. |
| With Aloo Baba, this guy pretends being 72 and eating just potatoes ('aloo' in Hindi). |
| On the left hand side the road to the Ajaypal temple, on the right hand side the Potato Guru temple. |
| People brewing a milk and honey based "Energy Drink". |
| Got a free "Energy Drink" from the Potato Guru. |
| Reaching the 11th Century Ajaypal temple, 10km from Pushkar. http://pushkarguide.com/ajay-pal-temple/ |
| Not always easy to find the right road for the return, when only the animal hospital is signposted in english. |
| Guy (with oversized slippers) carrying water to the temple lingam. |
| Typical houses of the poorer families. A little girl happily plays with a giant swing attached to the tree. |
Tuktuk ride to Vishamitra (shiva) temple, 8km North of Pushkar.
| Dancing eunuch in another temple, Shree Chitrakutdham. |
| The lobby of the charming "Seventh Heaven Inn" hotel of last years, now visited for dinner (as I had to book another hotel this year). |
| The Seventh Heaven Inn hotel (another view). |
| The business-hotel styled lobby of my hotel for this this stay, definately not as charming as the Seventh Heaven Inn hotel (now full). |
- Recommended tuktuk driver: Harish Mali 9587158021
|---| Treebo Pushkar Legacy, 19€/n including breakfast.
Saturday 25/Feb/2017.
Pushkar.
Sri Panchkund Shiva temple
Goumukh
Manibandh Shakti Peeth
|---| Sleeper bus from Pushkar to Jaisalmer (21:00-7:00), 600Rs.
Sunday 26/Feb/2017 - Jaisalmer.
Jain Temple.
|---| Gajanand Guest House, Jaisalmer, 800Rs/night.
Monday 27/Feb/2017.
Jaisalmer.
Cenotaphes.
Fort Palace visit.
|---| Night bus from Jaisalmer to Udaipur, 18:00-6:00, 12h, 750Rs.
Tuesday 28/Feb/2017.
Chittorgarh Fort and Chottorgarh to Bundi journey.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chittor_Fort
Chittorgarh.
Chottorgarh to Bundi journey.
|---| Dev Niwas Haveli, Pushkar, 1000Rs (same hotel as two years ago).
Wednesday 1/Mar/2017.
Bhimlat falls and Pushkar.
On the road to the waterfall.

Bundi.
|---| Dev Niwas Haveli, Pushkar, 1000Rs.
Thursday 2/Mar/2017.
Pushkar to Ujjain journey.
|---| Grand Tower hotel, Ujjain, 1300Rs, BAD !!!
Friday 3/Mar/2017.
Ujjain & Ujjain to Mandu journey.
Ujjain.
- 14:30-21:00 public bus from from Ujjain to Mandu, an endless 6h30 journey.
|---| Malwa Retreat MPDTC, Mandu, 22€/night.
Saturday 04/Mar/2017.
Bicycling Mandu's countryside.
|---| Malwa Retreat MPDTC, Mandu, 22€/night.
Sunday 05/Mar/2017.
Mandu to Maheshwar and Omkareshwar journey.
Maheshwar.
Holy place on the Narmada river.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maheshwar
Omkareshwar.
Holy place on the Narmada river.
- 8:30-10/00 taxi ride from Mandu to Maheshwar, 900Rs.
- Public bus from Maheshwar to Omkareshwar, 65Rs.
|---| Narmada Resort, Omkareshwar.
Monday 06/Mar/2017.
Omkareshwar and Omkareshwar to Indore journey.
- 14:30-17:00 public bus from Omkareshwar to Indore, 2h30, 80Rs.
|---| Hotel Kalinga, Indore, 2200Rs.
Tuesday 07/Mar/2017 .
Indore to Bhopal and Sanchi journey.
Heliodorus Pillar.
The Heliodorus pillar (Khamb Baba) was erected by a Greek ambassador, Heliodorus, in about 140BC (Alexander the Great...).
The pillar is worshipped by local fishermen who chain themselves to the pillar on full moon nights.
The pillar stands about 12km from Sanchi.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heliodorus_pillar
Udayagiri Caves.
Cut into a sandstone hill, about 4km from the Heliodorus pillar, are some 20 cave shrines dating from the 4th Century. Most are Hindu.
Interesting to visit, however not at all of the same standard as the Ellora or Ajanta caves in Maharashtra (2013 visit).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Udayagiri_Caves
- 9:15-13:00 Private bus from Indore to Bhopal, Skybus,330Rs.
- 13:30-15:00 Public bus from Bhopal's Nadra bus-stand to Sanchi, 1h30.
|---| Gateway Retreat, Sanchi, 2200Rs + taxes.
Wednesday 08/Mar/2017.
Sanchi.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanchi
Buddhist stupas.
Some of India's oldest Buddhist structures.
In 262BC, repentant of the horrors he had inflicted, the emperor Ashoka embraced Buddhism.
As a penance he built a great stupa at Sanchi. It was the first Buddhist monument in the region.
As Hinduism gradually reabsorbed Buddhism, the site decayed and was forgotten until "rediscovered" in 1818 by a British army officer.
|---| Treebo Pushkar Legacy, 19€/n including breakfast.
Saturday 25/Feb/2017.
Pushkar.
Sri Panchkund Shiva temple
Goumukh
Manibandh Shakti Peeth
| Sunrise, as observed from my bedroom. |
| Hiking path to the Goumukh temple. |
| Goumukh temple. |
| Shocking to see this shop in the Holy City of Pushkar, used to be meat and alcohol-free. |
| A lighthouse? No, the Chamunda Devi Mandir (Temple), the 27th Shaktipeeth (energy node) among 51 in India. The temple is also known for the beautiful erotic statues of Shiva and Parvati in an embrace, unfortunately only showed on special occasion. |
| The new cable car to the Savitri temple mountain now allows to observe the sunset. Previously (2013, 2015) this was a long and steep climb fully exposed to the sun. |
| Sunset over the desert. |
|---| Sleeper bus from Pushkar to Jaisalmer (21:00-7:00), 600Rs.
Sunday 26/Feb/2017 - Jaisalmer.
| Sleeper bus arrival at Jaisalmer. |
| Jaisalmer fort walls. |
| Jaisalmer fort, one of the four successive gates. |
| Jaisalmer. |
Jain Temple.
| Getting my tickets for the puppet show of tonight. |
| Near sunset. |
| Sunset on the city and the fort. |
| The evening puppet show. |
|---| Gajanand Guest House, Jaisalmer, 800Rs/night.
Monday 27/Feb/2017.
Jaisalmer.
Cenotaphes.
| Cremation grounds of the maharajs. |
| Crematon platform of the last maharaj. |
| Maharaj's body was cremated here together with his two wifes and six concubines... |
| More recently this barbarian habit came to an end. |
| Back in town |
| Awaiting lunch. |
| Maharaj family tree, descending from the Gods. |
|---| Night bus from Jaisalmer to Udaipur, 18:00-6:00, 12h, 750Rs.
Tuesday 28/Feb/2017.
Chittorgarh Fort and Chottorgarh to Bundi journey.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chittor_Fort
Chittorgarh.
| Village inside the fort ramparts, some 5000 people live there. |
| Chittorgarh fort, one of the largest of India, with 16km of ramparts. |
| Vijay Stambha tower (Vicory tower), 15th Century, nine storeys, 37m high. |
| Gaumukh Reservoir, where 16000 women suiced by jumping to death to keep their honor. |
| View on Chittorgarhs modern town. |
| Jain tower Kiti Stambha, 12th Century, six storeys, 22m high. |
| Jain sculptures. |
Chottorgarh to Bundi journey.
| The bus dumped me at this crossroad, in the middle of nowhere. |
| Many thanks to these seriously looking guys, taking me with their car to the bus station of Bijolia, some 10km away, lateron, once more they came checking wether all went fine with me. |
| Bijolia "city center". |
| Two hours later the bus for Bundi arrived. |
| Railway crossing. |
| Village market. |
| My bedroom for the next two nights. Reached the hotel at 18:00, exactly 24 hours after having left Jaisalmer. |
|---| Dev Niwas Haveli, Pushkar, 1000Rs (same hotel as two years ago).
Wednesday 1/Mar/2017.
Bhimlat falls and Pushkar.
| Bundi. |
| First glimpse on the waterfall... without water. |
| Entrance to the "falls" (free). Indeed, no water ! |
| Being greeted... |
| Being greeted... by India's lovely countryside people. |
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| Bhilat waterfall, 60m high, how I might have found it at another period of the year (picture stolen from the internet). |
| Back in Bundi. |
| Silversmith making earrings on request for my daughters. |
| My Ganesha drawing being painted on request (1.5h of work, 250Rs) |
|---| Dev Niwas Haveli, Pushkar, 1000Rs.
Thursday 2/Mar/2017.
Pushkar to Ujjain journey.
| My 1st bus of the day: Bundi-Kota, 8:00-8:45, 0h45 journey, followed by a 2nd bus, Kota-Ujjain 9:00-17:20, 8h20 journey. |
| Village life along the road. |
|---| Grand Tower hotel, Ujjain, 1300Rs, BAD !!!
Friday 3/Mar/2017.
Ujjain & Ujjain to Mandu journey.
Ujjain.
| Inner court of the Mahakaleshwer Temple. Pictured by a temple-authorized photographer, as strictly no cameras allowed. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahakaleshwar_Jyotirlinga |
| Bussy river ghat. |
| Harsiddhi temple. the 13th Shaktipeeth (energy node) among the 51. |
| The Kaal Bhairav temple deity, 7km out of town. Famous for the unque "miracle" with the alcohol-drinking god (here swallowing my alcohol). Click here for a brief YouTube movie (not mine) |
| Many shops around the temple sell (fake?) alcohol for the deity. As my present, I bought a little one for 50Rs (0.75€). Trying to understand the miracle, the priests pushed me out. |
|---| Malwa Retreat MPDTC, Mandu, 22€/night.
Saturday 04/Mar/2017.
Bicycling Mandu's countryside.
| Female politicians visiting the Afgan ruins. |
| Also picture just for me, after having listen to my concerns regarding India. |
| A refreshing Kingfisher beer at Melwa Resort. |
| Nil Kanth Shiva temple, a former Mongol palace converted into a Hindu temple. |
| A rarity outside southern africa: baobab trees. |
| My indian bike in front of a huge baobab tree. |
| The hotel for this and also previous night. |
|---| Malwa Retreat MPDTC, Mandu, 22€/night.
Sunday 05/Mar/2017.
Mandu to Maheshwar and Omkareshwar journey.
Maheshwar.
Holy place on the Narmada river.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maheshwar
| Maheshwar. |
| One can get thoroughly cleaned by professionals. |
| Lost in translation ? |
| Maheshwar has many colorful old wooden houses with balconies. |
Omkareshwar.
Holy place on the Narmada river.
| Omkareshwar. In the background, the controversial dam on the holy Narmada river. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omkareshwar_Dam |
| Lemon-soda stall, 20Rs/glass. |
| Omkareshwar, multiple shops sell cheap pilgrimage material. |
- 8:30-10/00 taxi ride from Mandu to Maheshwar, 900Rs.
- Public bus from Maheshwar to Omkareshwar, 65Rs.
|---| Narmada Resort, Omkareshwar.
Monday 06/Mar/2017.
Omkareshwar and Omkareshwar to Indore journey.
| Omkareshwar with the morning light. |
| 287 steps leading to the Gaudi Somnath temple, start of a one hour pilgrims hike around the island. |
| At the end of the stairs, a 30m tall Shiva statue, near to the Gaudi Somnath temple. |
| Siddhanath Shiva temple. |
| Siddhanath Shiva temple lingam with two cobra snakes. |
| Omkareshwar to Indore bus ride, a 2h30 long bumpy experience. |
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| Excellent dinner at Chotiwala restaurant, even if this one has no relationship with the likewise named restaurants of Rishikesh. |
|---| Hotel Kalinga, Indore, 2200Rs.
Tuesday 07/Mar/2017 .
Indore to Bhopal and Sanchi journey.
| Today a more comfortable (private) bus for the Indore-Bhopal journey. |
| Followed by a more pathetic ride from Bhopal to Sanchi. |
| Bhopal, shopping center. |
Heliodorus Pillar.
The Heliodorus pillar (Khamb Baba) was erected by a Greek ambassador, Heliodorus, in about 140BC (Alexander the Great...).
The pillar is worshipped by local fishermen who chain themselves to the pillar on full moon nights.
The pillar stands about 12km from Sanchi.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heliodorus_pillar
| The carvings in the pillar demonstrate that it was errected by the greek ambassador, around 140 years before Christ !!! |
Udayagiri Caves.
Cut into a sandstone hill, about 4km from the Heliodorus pillar, are some 20 cave shrines dating from the 4th Century. Most are Hindu.
Interesting to visit, however not at all of the same standard as the Ellora or Ajanta caves in Maharashtra (2013 visit).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Udayagiri_Caves
| Free entrance. |
| Lord Vishnu with a boar incarnation, topped with a frieze of Gods. |
| The beautiful Shivelingam, the only one with Shiva's face, completed with a third eye. |
| Peaceful countryside. In this region they harvest twice a year: wheat (March/April) and then rice. |
| Sanchi, the great Buddhist stupa (3rd Century before Christ) World Heritage site to visit tomorrow. |
| The hotel for tonight. |
- 13:30-15:00 Public bus from Bhopal's Nadra bus-stand to Sanchi, 1h30.
|---| Gateway Retreat, Sanchi, 2200Rs + taxes.
Wednesday 08/Mar/2017.
Sanchi.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanchi
| Got a nice rose for my room this morning. |
Some of India's oldest Buddhist structures.
In 262BC, repentant of the horrors he had inflicted, the emperor Ashoka embraced Buddhism.
As a penance he built a great stupa at Sanchi. It was the first Buddhist monument in the region.
As Hinduism gradually reabsorbed Buddhism, the site decayed and was forgotten until "rediscovered" in 1818 by a British army officer.
| "Marshal House", the residence of the British archaeologist Sir John Marshall, who supervised the Sanchi excavations (1912 to 1919). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Marshall_(archaeologist) |
| Sanchi museum, with many images of Buddha in different postures, found during the excavations of the archaeological site. |
| The Great Stupa, 36.5m in diameter, 16.4m high. with a massive hemispherical dome. 3th Century before Christ. |
| Great stupa. Encircling the stupa is a wall with four entrances through magnificently carved 'Toranas', said to be the finest Buddhist works of art in India. |
| The 'Toranas' were erected around 35BC but had fallen down by the time the site was rediscovered. |
| These three lions appear on every banknote of India. |
| Indian palm squirrel. |
| Awaiting another vegetarian dinner, with a Kingfisher Beer. |
|---| 23:45-7:00 Sleeper bus from Bhopal to Jabalpur.
Thursday 09/Mar/2017.
Jabalpur.
Bhedahat, the Marble Rocks on the Narmada river.
Aarti at Gwarighat.
|---| Wow rooms 4 you, Jabalpur.
Friday 10/Mar/2017.
Jabalpur.
Pisan Hari Madiya Jain Temple.
Balancing rock.
Thursday 09/Mar/2017.
Jabalpur.
Bhedahat, the Marble Rocks on the Narmada river.
| A monk lives in a cave. |
![]() |
| Children jump to collect few rupees. |
| Already 10 Rupees in his mouth. |
| Jet-lagged Valérie arrived today. Three days earlier she was still travelling Colombia, made a quick jump in Marseille, now here... |
| Ropeway to the Narmada river waterfall (85Rs return, 1€30). |
| A fisherman. |
Aarti at Gwarighat.
|---| Wow rooms 4 you, Jabalpur.
Friday 10/Mar/2017.
Jabalpur.
Pisan Hari Madiya Jain Temple.
| Some British influence? |
| Nearly every five days, this statue automatically changes color. The process already started on the leg on the left hand side. |
Balancing rock.
| Balancing rock. |
Gwarigath.
| Gwarigath. |
| Gwarigath. |
| End of the boat trip on this little island. |
Kachnar city.
| Kachnar City, the marble Shiva Statue. One of the tallest in India. |
| Holika, reday to burnt on the Holi's eve. |
|---| Wow rooms 4 you, Jabalpur, 12€/night.
Saturday 11/Mar/2017.
Jabalpur to Amarkantak journey.
Saturday 11/Mar/2017.
Jabalpur to Amarkantak journey.
| Jabalpur to Amarkantak bus, at Jabalpur's busstand. |
| Amarkantak, Narmadakund temple, the main temple. With the source of the holy Narmada river. |
- Jabalpur to Amarkantak bus, 9:15-17:45, 8h30.
|---| The Residency, Amarkantak, 32€/night.
Sunday 12/Mar/2017.
Amarkantak.
Source of the Narmada river.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amarkantak
Monday 13/Mar/2017.
Holy Festival (Festival of colours) & Amarkantak to Varanasi journey.
|---| Sleeper train to Vatranasi.
Monday 14/Mar/2015 - Varanasi.
|---| Family Guest house, 500RS/4p.
Tuesday 15/Mar/2017.
Varanasi to Bodh Gaya journey.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodh_Gaya
Varanasi, continued.
|---| The Residency, Amarkantak, 32€/night.
Sunday 12/Mar/2017.
Amarkantak.
Source of the Narmada river.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amarkantak
| The construction work on the Sri Yantra temple goes very slowly... as they work only one day on it every year. Incredible India. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shakti |
| All of these ladies are well equiped. |
| Sarvodaya Jain temple, still under construction. |
| Medecinal plants. |
| Kapildhara Fall, where the Narmada river plunges down a 24 m high cliff. |
| A God's footsteps. |
| In God's footsteps. |
| Lemon soda time, with from the left hand side to the right hand side : 1/ and 4/ Cyril and Valérie, 1st week in India, 2/ Fabienne a Belgian woman, already travelling India for a 17th time, 3/ Yann, Roman Catholic priest living with Mother Theresa nuns in Varanasi These were all of the western tourists present in Amarkantak. |
| Colour powder being sold for next day's Holi celebration, this year celebrated on March 13. |
| Narmadakund temple complex. |
| Narmadakund temple complex. |
| Narmadakund temple complex. |
| Holika Dahan is celebrated all over India with a bonfire. |
Monday 13/Mar/2017.
Holy Festival (Festival of colours) & Amarkantak to Varanasi journey.
| 'Penra Road', 1h15 from Amarkantak. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holi |
| Penguins at Pendra Road railway station. |
|---| Sleeper train to Vatranasi.
Monday 14/Mar/2015 - Varanasi.
| The Ganga river at Varanasi. |
| Varanasi Gaths. |
| Varanasi Gaths. |
| Bathing, Teeth brushing, body cleaning, clothes washing. |
| Individual religious ritual ceremony. |
| Body washing. |
| Clothes washing. |
| Buffalo washing. |
| Urinals... |
|---| Family Guest house, 500RS/4p.
Tuesday 15/Mar/2017.
Varanasi to Bodh Gaya journey.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodh_Gaya
Varanasi, continued.
| Sunrise. |
| Chanting prayers. |
| Also some western people pray at the Ganga river ghats. |
Leaving Varanasi fpr Bodh Gaya.
|---| Tara Guest House, Bodh Gaya, 800Rs.
Thursday 16/Mar/2017.
Bodh Gaya.
The place where Buddha obtained the enlightenment.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodh_Gaya
National temples.
Many Buddhist countries built a temple or a monastery in the village.
Mahabodi temple.
This temple complex was built in the 7th Century, replacing a temple built 800 year earlier at the place where Buddha reached the Great Awakaning, the Supreme Enlightenment (6th century BC).
It is the most sacred Buddhist pilgrimage place in the world.
Unesco World Heritage site.
| Leaving Valérie, Fabienne, and Cyril after the boat ride and breakfast. Valérie and Cyril will slowly return to Delhi where we'll meetagain later. Fabienne will stay somewhat longer in Varanasi. |
| Varanasi's busstand, confuse and dirty. No bus found for Gaya. |
| Varanasi's bussy railway station. All seats were found to be reserved on the train for Gaya. Fortunately a German girl let me share her sleeper bed seat for the 5h30 journey (16:10-21:40). |
|---| Tara Guest House, Bodh Gaya, 800Rs.
Thursday 16/Mar/2017.
Bodh Gaya.
The place where Buddha obtained the enlightenment.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodh_Gaya
| Tergar Temple, last day of the 'Winter Dharma Gathering' Buddhist seminar. |
| The 25m tall Buddha statue (1989), containing 20 000 bronze Buddha statues. |
National temples.
Many Buddhist countries built a temple or a monastery in the village.
| Japanese temple. |
| Japanese temple. |
| Bhutanese monastery. |
| Bhutanese monastery. |
Mahabodi temple.
This temple complex was built in the 7th Century, replacing a temple built 800 year earlier at the place where Buddha reached the Great Awakaning, the Supreme Enlightenment (6th century BC).
It is the most sacred Buddhist pilgrimage place in the world.
Unesco World Heritage site.
| Entrance lane to the temple complex (free entrance). |
| Gold plated 2m tall Buddha statue, 10th century |
| Sri-Lankan pilgrims praying and chanting in front of the Bodhi Tree. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodhi_Tree |
| Return at the guest house (the blue colour building) with my complimentary bike. |
|---| Tara Guest House, Bodh-Gaya, 800Rs.
Friday 17/Mar/2017.
Bodh-Gaya to Madhuban journey.
- Autorickshaw private ride from Bodh-Gaya to Gaya's railway station, 0h50, 200Rs.
- Train ride from Gaya to Parasnath in general class, 80Rs, 2h.
- Free car ride from Parasnath to Madhuban.
|---| Yatri Niwas, Madhuban, 500Rs/n (very basic room).
Saturday 18/Mar/2017.
Parasnath Hill Jain pilgrimage.
A 3:00-12:00, 9h, 27km pilgrimage climbing the Parasnath Hill mountain, the staircase has over 10000 steps.
http://www.notey.com/@ghumakkar_unofficial/external/12944481/parasnath-hill---the-revered-pilgrimage-of-shikharji-in-giridih.html
Friday 17/Mar/2017.
Bodh-Gaya to Madhuban journey.
| Leaving Dominique, from Corsica, already for 12 years in India, running the guest house and also a local 250 pupils school. |
| Arrival of the Purushottam Express in Parasnath station. |
| Helpful Tony, he kindly found me a seat for the two hours train journey, and next drove me with his car to the dharamsala (pilgrim hostel) in Madhuban. |
| Window view, sunset over Madhuban. |
- Train ride from Gaya to Parasnath in general class, 80Rs, 2h.
- Free car ride from Parasnath to Madhuban.
|---| Yatri Niwas, Madhuban, 500Rs/n (very basic room).
Saturday 18/Mar/2017.
Parasnath Hill Jain pilgrimage.
A 3:00-12:00, 9h, 27km pilgrimage climbing the Parasnath Hill mountain, the staircase has over 10000 steps.
http://www.notey.com/@ghumakkar_unofficial/external/12944481/parasnath-hill---the-revered-pilgrimage-of-shikharji-in-giridih.html
| Reached the mountain ridge and the first temple after 2.h30, at 5:45. Many people do the pilgrimage with a sedan chair (4500Rs/day/4carriers, 65€). |
| Only the footprints of the Jain idols are shown. |
| Despite the many pilgrims, and the many signs, it is some times hard to find the right pathway. |
| The last and most important temple is on the highest summit of the mountain. |
| A beautiful flower in a near-dead tree. |
| The Jain museum. |
|---| Yatri Niwas, Madhuban, 500Rs/n (very basic room).
Sunday 19/Mar/2016 - Madhuban to Ranchi and to Puri journey.
- shared autorickshaw (tempo) from Madhuban to nearby highway junction, 10:10, 10Rs.
- bus from highway junction to Ranchi, 10:30-15:20, 4h50, 160Rs.
- autorickshaw from bus stop to Hatia train station (on request, an extremely fast ride), 15:25-15:50, 0h25, 300Rs.
- train from Ranchi-Hatia to Puri, "Tapaswini Express", 23 cars, 15:55-7:15+2h30 delay, 17h50, 656km, 185Rs.
- autorickshaw from Puri railway station to bus stand, 5 minutes, 20Rs.
- bus from Puri to Konark, 10:00-10:55, 0h55, 30Rs.
TOTAL from Madhuban to Konark : 24h45.
|---| Overnight train.
Monday 20/Mar/2017.
Konark.
Sun Temple.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Konark_Sun_Temple
Massive 13th Century temple, Unesco World Heritage site.
[---| Lotus resort, Konark, 3087Rs/chalet.
Tuesday 21/Mar/2017.
Konark and Konark to Kolkata journey.
- Taxi ride from Konark to Puri's long distance bus terminal, 17:30-18:20, 0h50, 1000Rs.
- Sleeper bus from Puri to Kolkata, 19:30-6:15, 10h45, 550Rs.
|---| Overnight bus.
Wednesday 22/Mar/2017.
Kolkata in one day.
Mother Teresa House.

(Click to EXIT)
Sunday 19/Mar/2016 - Madhuban to Ranchi and to Puri journey.
| Awaiting the bus at the highway junction near Madhuban. |
| Ranchi-Hatia railway station, where I arrived five minutes before train departure, just in time. |
| The train conductor emptying the trash bin, each time it is full... |
- shared autorickshaw (tempo) from Madhuban to nearby highway junction, 10:10, 10Rs.
- bus from highway junction to Ranchi, 10:30-15:20, 4h50, 160Rs.
- autorickshaw from bus stop to Hatia train station (on request, an extremely fast ride), 15:25-15:50, 0h25, 300Rs.
- train from Ranchi-Hatia to Puri, "Tapaswini Express", 23 cars, 15:55-7:15+2h30 delay, 17h50, 656km, 185Rs.
- autorickshaw from Puri railway station to bus stand, 5 minutes, 20Rs.
- bus from Puri to Konark, 10:00-10:55, 0h55, 30Rs.
TOTAL from Madhuban to Konark : 24h45.
|---| Overnight train.
Monday 20/Mar/2017.
Konark.
| My room for the next two nights. A good improvement regarding the last three nights. |
| A welcome refreshment after the 24h journey. |
Sun Temple.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Konark_Sun_Temple
Massive 13th Century temple, Unesco World Heritage site.
| The temple is built in the shape of a 39m high chariot, still standing, while the ruined 70m tower collapsed. |
| The 24 stone wheels of the chariot are 3m wide. |
| Erotic stone carvings. |
| Restauration work is still ongoing. |
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|
| Balancing my legs, feeling eight years old on this high chair. |
[---| Lotus resort, Konark, 3087Rs/chalet.
Tuesday 21/Mar/2017.
Konark and Konark to Kolkata journey.
| All alone on a deserted sandy beach. Nobody, nobody around me, an appreciated luxury in overpopulated India. |
| Leaving my comfortable cottage with regrets for another overnight journey. |
Oops ! "SAFTY FAST" and "SPEED NEXT" painted on my bus... |
- Sleeper bus from Puri to Kolkata, 19:30-6:15, 10h45, 550Rs.
|---| Overnight bus.
Wednesday 22/Mar/2017.
Kolkata in one day.
Mother Teresa House.
| From left to right: staircase to Mother Teresa's room, Lourdes cave, the entrances to the museum, the chapel and to her tomb. |
| Mother Teresa's tomb. |
| Nuns cleaning clothes and linen. |
Park Street Cemetery.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Park_Street_Cemetery
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Park_Street_Cemetery
| Vivian Derozia, the first Indan nationalist poet of Modern India, died at young age, like many others as learned from the tombs. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Louis_Vivian_Derozio |
| Probably a shoe lost by the cemetery zombies. |
Garbage Mountain.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhapa,_India
Mother Teresa house for the dying.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhapa,_India
| One side of the road. |
| Opposite side of the road... |
| Plastic recycling activity by the poor people. |
Mother Teresa house for the dying.
| Mother Teresa house for the dying destitutes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalighat_Home_for_the_Dying |
Victoria Memorial.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victoria_Memorial,_Kolkata
Botanical Gardens, the Great Banyan tree.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Great_Banyan
Howrah Railway Station.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victoria_Memorial,_Kolkata
Botanical Gardens, the Great Banyan tree.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Great_Banyan
Howrah Railway Station.
| Kolkata Howrah Junction, India's largest railway complex. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howrah_Junction_railway_station |
Howrah Bridge.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howrah_Bridge
From Lonely Planet :
Howrah Bridge is a 705m-long abstraction of shiny steel cantilevers and rivets, which serves as a carriageway of nonstop human and motorised traffic across the Hooghly River.
Built during WWII, it’s one of the world’s busiest bridges and a Kolkatan architectural icon. Photography of the bridge is prohibited, but you might sneak a discreet shot from one of the various ferries that ply across the river to the vast 1906 Howrah train station.
The Indian Coffee House of Kolkata.
|---| Hotel Cecil, Kolkata, 1700Rs.
Thursday 23/Mar/2017.
Kolkata to Sunderbans journey.
Kolkata.
Countryside.
Ferries.
|---| Eco Resort, Sunderbans.
Friday 24/Mar/2017.
Sunderbans Tiger Reserve.
From Lonely Planet :
Home to one of the largest concentration of Royal Bengal tigers on the planet, the 2585 km2 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve is a network of channels and semi-submerged mangroves that forms the world’s largest river delta. The ecosystem here is contiguous with the Sunderbans delta in Bangladesh, which lies eastward across the international border along the same shoreline.
Tigers (officially estimated to number a few more than 100) lurk in the impenetrable depths of the mangrove forests, and also swim the delta’s innumerable channels. Although they do sometimes attack villagers and prey on livestock, tigers are typically shy and sightings are rare. Nevertheless, cruising the broad waterways through the world’s biggest mangrove sanctuary (now a Unesco World Heritage Site) and watching wildlife, whether it be gangetic dolphins, water monitors, 5m-long saltwater crocodiles or luminescent kingfishers, is a world away from Kolkata’s chaos.
|---| Hotel Cecil, Kolkata, 2040s incl. taxes and breakfast.
Saturday 25/Mar/2017.
Kolkata to Delhi journey.
Flight 9W2264 from Kolkata to Delhi, 10:55-13:20, 2h25, Jet Airways, 2939Rs, 45€ (booked).
Leaving Kolkata.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howrah_Bridge
From Lonely Planet :
Howrah Bridge is a 705m-long abstraction of shiny steel cantilevers and rivets, which serves as a carriageway of nonstop human and motorised traffic across the Hooghly River.
Built during WWII, it’s one of the world’s busiest bridges and a Kolkatan architectural icon. Photography of the bridge is prohibited, but you might sneak a discreet shot from one of the various ferries that ply across the river to the vast 1906 Howrah train station.
| Crossing the Hooghly river, an arm of the Ganga river. |
| Howrah Bridge, one of Kolkata's four river crossings. |
The Indian Coffee House of Kolkata.
| Excellent coffees and snacks in the 1950's atmosphere of this famous cooperative. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_Coffee_House |
|---| Hotel Cecil, Kolkata, 1700Rs.
Thursday 23/Mar/2017.
Kolkata to Sunderbans journey.
Kolkata.
Countryside.
| Mobile shop. |
Ferries.
| Godkhali, 3h30 from Kolkata the road suddenly ends. |
| Godkhali ferries for the Gosaba island. |
| Part of the ferry load. |
| Island of Gosaba. |
| Island of Gosaba. |
| A painful 30 minutes ride on a bumpy path to cross the island. |
| Ferries from the Gosaba island to the Satjelia island. |
| Satjelia Island. |
| Satjelia Island. |
| Satjelia Island. |
| Satjelia Island. |
| Satjelia Island. |
| Satjelia Island. |
| Satjelia Island, one big family. |
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| Sunset on the Satjelia island. |
Friday 24/Mar/2017.
Sunderbans Tiger Reserve.
From Lonely Planet :
Home to one of the largest concentration of Royal Bengal tigers on the planet, the 2585 km2 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve is a network of channels and semi-submerged mangroves that forms the world’s largest river delta. The ecosystem here is contiguous with the Sunderbans delta in Bangladesh, which lies eastward across the international border along the same shoreline.
Tigers (officially estimated to number a few more than 100) lurk in the impenetrable depths of the mangrove forests, and also swim the delta’s innumerable channels. Although they do sometimes attack villagers and prey on livestock, tigers are typically shy and sightings are rare. Nevertheless, cruising the broad waterways through the world’s biggest mangrove sanctuary (now a Unesco World Heritage Site) and watching wildlife, whether it be gangetic dolphins, water monitors, 5m-long saltwater crocodiles or luminescent kingfishers, is a world away from Kolkata’s chaos.
Saturday 25/Mar/2017.
Kolkata to Delhi journey.
Flight 9W2264 from Kolkata to Delhi, 10:55-13:20, 2h25, Jet Airways, 2939Rs, 45€ (booked).
Leaving Kolkata.
Domestic flight from Kolkata to Delhi.
| Spicy vegetarian Jet Airways lunch. |
| Delhi metro. McDonald's diner. |
|---| Hotel Silverstone, Delhi, Karol Bagh, 4753Rs/3n.
Sunday 26/Mar/2017.
Delhi.
Iron Pillar.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delhi
From Lonely Planet :
In the courtyard of the Quwwat ul-Islam mosque stands a 6.7m-high iron pillar that is much more ancient than any of the surrounding monuments. It hasn't rusted over the past 1600 years, due to its incredible purity.
A six-line Sanskrit inscription indicates that it was initially erected outside a Vishnu temple, possibly in Bihar, in memory of Chandragupta II, who ruled from AD 375 to 413.
Scientists are at a loss as to how the iron was cast using the technology of the time.
Qutb Minar.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qutb_Minar
From Lonely Planet :
The Qutb Minar is an Afghan-style victory tower and minaret, erected by sultan Qutb-ud-din in 1193 to proclaim his supremacy over the vanquished Hindu rulers of Qila Rai Pithora.
Ringed by intricately carved sandstone bands bearing verses from the Quran, the tower stands nearly 73m high and tapers from a 15m-diameter base to a mere 2.5m at the top.
The tower has five distinct storeys with projecting balconies, but Qutb-ud-din only completed the first level before his death. His successors completed the job.
Dilli Haat - fair trade handicraft shopping.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dilli_Haat
Sunday 26/Mar/2017.
Delhi.
Iron Pillar.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delhi
From Lonely Planet :
In the courtyard of the Quwwat ul-Islam mosque stands a 6.7m-high iron pillar that is much more ancient than any of the surrounding monuments. It hasn't rusted over the past 1600 years, due to its incredible purity.
A six-line Sanskrit inscription indicates that it was initially erected outside a Vishnu temple, possibly in Bihar, in memory of Chandragupta II, who ruled from AD 375 to 413.
Scientists are at a loss as to how the iron was cast using the technology of the time.
Qutb Minar.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qutb_Minar
From Lonely Planet :
The Qutb Minar is an Afghan-style victory tower and minaret, erected by sultan Qutb-ud-din in 1193 to proclaim his supremacy over the vanquished Hindu rulers of Qila Rai Pithora.
Ringed by intricately carved sandstone bands bearing verses from the Quran, the tower stands nearly 73m high and tapers from a 15m-diameter base to a mere 2.5m at the top.
The tower has five distinct storeys with projecting balconies, but Qutb-ud-din only completed the first level before his death. His successors completed the job.
Dilli Haat - fair trade handicraft shopping.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dilli_Haat
| Madhubani Painting exhibition. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madhubani_art |
|---| Hotel Silverstone, Karol Bagh, Delhi, 4753Rs/3n.
Monday 27/Mar/2017.
Delhi.
Sikh Temple, Sisganj Gurdwara.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gurudwara_Sis_Ganj_Sahib
From Lonely Planet :
The 8th-century Sisganj Gurdwara marks the martrydom site of the ninth Sikh guru, Tegh Bahadur, executed in 1675 for resisting conversion to Islam.
A banyan tree marks the spot where he was killed.
Hanuman Temple.
From Lonely Planet :
This temple is not to be missed (it's actually hard to miss) if you're in Karol Bagh. Take a short detour to see the 34m-high Hanuman statue that soars above the train tracks. Getting up close, there are passageways through the mouths of demons to a series of atmospheric, deity-filled chambers.
|---| Hotel Silverstone, Karol Bagh, Delhi, 4753Rs/3n.
Tuesday 28/Mar/2017.
Delhi to Home journey.
- Taxi from hotel to Airport (550Rs, 8€")
- Flight TK0717 from Delhi to Istanbul, 6:15-10-30, 6h45,Turkish airlines.
- Flight TK1367 from Istanbul to Marseille, 14:25-16:55, 3h30, Turkish Airlines.
- Bus from Marseille-Provence Airport to Aix-en-Provence bus station, 0h50.
|---| Home around 18:30.
Monday 27/Mar/2017.
Delhi.
Sikh Temple, Sisganj Gurdwara.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gurudwara_Sis_Ganj_Sahib
From Lonely Planet :
The 8th-century Sisganj Gurdwara marks the martrydom site of the ninth Sikh guru, Tegh Bahadur, executed in 1675 for resisting conversion to Islam.
A banyan tree marks the spot where he was killed.
| The kitchen of the Sikh temple prepares 25 000 free meals a day. |
| Food is free for anybody, rich or poor, whatever the religion. Only condition is to have the hair covered and to sit nicely in line. |
Hanuman Temple.
From Lonely Planet :
This temple is not to be missed (it's actually hard to miss) if you're in Karol Bagh. Take a short detour to see the 34m-high Hanuman statue that soars above the train tracks. Getting up close, there are passageways through the mouths of demons to a series of atmospheric, deity-filled chambers.
| The hanuman temple takes multiple floors within the 34m tall statue, and has narrow tunels in the basement. |
|---| Hotel Silverstone, Karol Bagh, Delhi, 4753Rs/3n.
Tuesday 28/Mar/2017.
Delhi to Home journey.
| Gate anouncement for the 6:15 Delhi - Istanbul flight, first leg of the journey. |
| Breakfast is served, (with a complimentary Turkish wine, on request). |
| Four hours long transit at Istanbul Ataturk airport. Awaiting the 14:25 Istanbul - Marseille flight, 2nd leg of the journey. Last picture of an excellent 5 weeks stay in East-Central India. |
- Taxi from hotel to Airport (550Rs, 8€")
- Flight TK0717 from Delhi to Istanbul, 6:15-10-30, 6h45,Turkish airlines.
- Flight TK1367 from Istanbul to Marseille, 14:25-16:55, 3h30, Turkish Airlines.
- Bus from Marseille-Provence Airport to Aix-en-Provence bus station, 0h50.
|---| Home around 18:30.

(Click to EXIT)









