November 5, 2016

Via Tolosana

Via Aurelia and Via Tolosana.
A lesser-known pilgrimage way to Santiago de Compostella.

 WARNING:  This is a still to complete pilgrimage !
My present status is: from Aix-en-Provence to Etsaut (38 hikes, in 7 sections). 



Itinerary :

1st section (CLICK HERE) 
16/Aug/2016, 1 day.
– Aix-en-Provence –> Salon-de-Provence

 2nd section (CLICK HERE) 
09/Oct/2016 and 10/Oct/2016, 2 days.
– Salon-de-Provence –> Maussane-les-Alpilles
– Maussane-les-Alpilles –> Arles

 3rd section (CLICK HERE) 
31/Oct/2016 to 03/Nov/2016, 3 days.
– Arles –> Saint-Gilles-du-Gard
– Saint-Gilles-du-Gard –> Gallargues-le-Montueux
– Gallargues-le-Montueux –> Montpellier

 4th section (CLICK HERE) 
27/Dec/2016 to 29/Dec/2016, 3 days.
– Montpellier –> Montarnaud
– Montarnaud –> Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert
– Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert –> Montpeyroux

 5th section (CLICK HERE) 
01/Apr/2017 to 09/Apr/2017, 9 days. 
– Montpeyroux –> Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquière
– Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquière –> Lodève
– Lodève –> Lunas
– Lunas –> Saint-Gervais-sur-Mare
– Saint-Gervais-sur-Mare –> Murat-sur-Vèbre
– Murat-sur-Vèbre –> La Salvetat-sur-Agoût
– La Salvetat-sur-Agoût –> Anglès
– Anglès –> Boissezon
– Boissezon –> Castres

6th section (CLICK HERE)
24/Oct/2018 to 02/Nov/2018, 10 days.
– Castres –> Dourgne
– Dourgne –> Revel
– Revel –> Cassés
– Cassés –> Avignonet-Lauragais
– Avignonet-Lauragais –> Ayguesvives
 – Ayguesvives –> Toulouse
– Toulouse-Pibrac–> L’Isle-Jourdain
– L’Isle-Jourdain –> Gimont
– Gimont –> Montégut
– Montégut –> Auch

Next sections (CLICK HERE)
 – Auch –> Barren
– Barren –> Saint-Christaud
–Saint-Christaud –> Marciac
– Marciac –> Vidouzere
– Vidouze –> Morlaàs
– Morlaàs –> Lescar (Auch)
– Lescar –> Lacommande
– Lacommande –> Oloron-Sainte-Marie
– Oloron-Sainte-Marie –> Sarrance
– Sarrance –> Etsaut

– Etsaut –> Col du Somport
– Col du Somport –> Jaca
– Jaca –> Arrés
– Arrés –> Ruesta
– Ruesta –> Sangüesa
– Sangüesa –> Monreal
– Monreal –> Puente-la-Reina

Map of the "Via Tolosana" pilgrimage trail,
39 days (+ 3 days as I started from Aix-en-Provence).
In Puente-la-Reina (Spain) it merges with the "Camino Francès" (the French Way),
the most popular of all Camino routes : 27 more days to reach Santiago-de-Compostella.



Aix-en-Provence.
Aix-en-Provence, my home town, the starting place.
Flower market in front of the town hall.



1st Section (1 day).

 Tuesday 16/Aug/2016
Hike #1 (start of the 1st section).
Aix-en-Provence to Salon-de-Provence.

 Aix-en-Provence - Eguilles - Quatre-Termes - Salon-de-Provence,
32km along the GR653A, the Via Aurelia.


The GR653A hiking trail runs from Menton to Aix-en-Provence and then to Arles.
In Arles the GR653A merges with the GR653D from the Alps and becomes the GR653.
The GR653 roughly retraces the medieval pilgrim way to Santiago-de-Compostella.

The town hall of Eguilles.
Valley view from Eguilles.  The old village was build upon a little hill.
Soon after having left Eguilles,
the trail runs for about 25km through the "Garrigue" (shrubland).
A "Borie", a dry stone hut.  These are quite common in this region.
The Yellow/Blue waymarking of the pilgrimage way,
is often substituted by the common Red/White marking of the GRs (here the GR653A).
Along the pilgrimage way, the "Scallop Shell" sign marks the direction of Santiago-de-Compostella,
while the "Keys" sign marks the direction of Rome.

At few places, for instance here when entering the town of Arles,
the pilgrimage way (Yellow/Blue) separates from the GR (Red/White).

 - bus from Aix-en-Provence to Eguilles, 8:17-8:51, 0h34, "Pays d'Aix" line 230.
- bus from Salon-de-Provence to Aix-en-Provence 15:23-15:57, 0h34, 6€20, "Cartreize" line 25.
|---| Home, Aix-en-Provence.



2nd Section (2 days).

Sunday 09/Oct/2016.
Hike #2 (start of the 2nd section).
Salon-de-Provence to Maussane-les-Alpilles.

 Salon-de-Provence - Eyguières - Aureille - Mouriès - Maussane-les-Alpilles.
32.2km along the GR653A, the Via Aurelia.
Sheepherder with his grazing sheep.
Canal de Craponne.


Antique sheep fold for the "Transhumance" (seasonal sheep migration).
This one was in use until 1950.
Entering Aureille, a wayside cross.
Aureille.


Lunch picnic.

Colorful graffiti.
Source des Oliviers, with welcome drinking water.
Source des Oliviers.
"Peace Garden".

This road name reminding on the pelgrimage road function in medieval times
of the roman Via Aurelia (now GR653A...).




Maussane-les-Alpilles.
Maussane les Alpilles.

Got a nice wooden caravan to spend the night.
- Bus from Aix-en-Provence to Salon-de-Provence, 9:15-9:49, 0h34.
|---| Gipsy Chic B&B, Maussane-les-Alpilles, 65€.
Monday 10/Oct/2016.
Hike #3.
Maussane-les-Alpilles to Arles.

 Maussane-les-Alpilles - Paradou - Fontvieille - Arles.
21.8km along the GR653A, the Via Aurelia.






Windmill near to Fontvieille (no, this is not the "Moulin de Daudet").
Descent towards Fontvieille, with ancient wheel tracks marked in the rock.
Fontvieille, where the GR653A from Menton (at the italian Riviera border) to Arles
merges with the GR653D from Montgenèvre (at the italian border in the Alps) to Arles.
The GR653 then runs from Arles to the Col-du-Somport (at the spanish border).
Lunch picnic.
A beautiful chapel in the middle of a farm land.
Montmajour Abbey.
Enterring Arles.
 
Arles.
Arles, the main square with the obelisc, the town hall and the Saint Trophime church.


 




Arles - Alyscamps.



Arles, Alyscamps, the main alley with sarcophagi and mausoleums
from Roman and early Christian times.

 - Bus from Arles to Aix-en-Provence, 16:30-18:04, 1h34, 11€, "Cartreize" line 18.
|---| Home, Aix-en-Provence.

3rd Section (3 days).

Monday 31/Oct/2016.
Hike #3 (start of the 3rd section).
From Arles to Saint-Gilles-du-Gard.
Back in Arles, three weeks later.
Remains of an old Railway bridge over the Grand Rhône
(eastern arm of the Rhône river delta).
A narrow road bridge over the Petit Rhône (Western arm of the Rhône river delta).
The Rhône divides into two branches few kilometers North from Arles,
forming the Camargue delta.








Saint Gilles.


Lost in translation...


 A tired pilgrim.
The "Abbatiale" (abbey church) of Saint Gilles.
The "Maison des Pèlerins", pilgrims hostel.
Two pilgrims staying this night.

 - Bus from Aix-en-Provence to Arles, 8:15-9:47, 1h32, 11€, "Cartreize" line 18.
|---| Communal pilgrims hostel, ran by volunteers, Saint-Gilles, 10€.
Tuesday 01/Nov/2016.
Hike #5.
From Saint-Gilles-du-Gard to Gallargues-le-Montueux.






Picnic with fellow-pilgrim Valérie.
Vauvert.


The old pilgrims hospital.


A contradictory statement...
Gallargues-le-Montueux.
The kitchen of the pilgrims hostel, located in an old elementary school.

 |---| Communal pilgrims hostel, ran by volunteers, Gallargues-le-Montueux, 10€ dorm.
Wednesday 02/Nov/2016.
Hike #6.
From Gallargues-le-Montueux to Montpellier.
The elementary school washroom of the pilgrims hostel,
evidence of the previous function of the building.
Moulin de Carrière watermill, 13th century.
Villetelle.  The Pilgrims Way (Yellow/Blue waymarking) breaks for a while
from the GR653 (White/Red waymarking).  Both merge again later on.
Leaving Villetelle, a wayside cross.
A "capitelle", a dry stone shepherd shelter.
Bulls.
Waymarking suggesting a little shortcut... while there are still 1463km to go.
Tunnel under the highway.
Colorful graffiti...

GR653 and Pilgrims Way merging again.
River crossing.
Vendargues.
The waymarking suggests taking the bus, then the tram for Montpellier.
Castelnau-le-Lez, the tram for downtown Montpellier.

|---| Gite Saint Roch, parish-runned, Montpellier, donativo.

4th Section (3 days).

Thursday 03/Nov/2016.
Montpellier.


Tour de Babote, where the first parachute jump took place.
Trompe-l'Oeil mural fresco.
Church of Saint Roch, a saint pilgrim, also patron of Montpellier.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Roch 






The belvedere terrace.
The 17th century Saint Clément aqueduc.
The University of Medecine.

The University of Medecine.
Cathédrale Saint Pierre de Montpellier, with the massive pillars.




Montpellier.  Place de la Comédie.
- Carpooling from Montpellier to Aix-en-Provence, Blablacar, 13:00-14:50, 12€.

 |---| Home, Aix-en-Provence.
4th Section (3 days).


Sunday 27/Dec/2016.
Hike #7 (start of the 4th section).

From Montpellier to Montarnaud.
Three weeks later, back in Montpellier for a few more stretches on the Via Tolosana.
Near to the tram stop, the familiar waymarking. 
Entering Grabels.

Grabels, Place Paul Chassary.
Leaving Grabels, Mosson river.


Belgian flag painted stone.
Indeed, a Belgian dutch-speaking family lives there.
Montarnaud, the fountain.
12th Century Notre-Dame-de-Sestairanègues chappel,
a national monument  in poor shape...
Pilgrim lodging.

 - Carpooling from Aix-en-Provence to Montpellier, Blablacar, 7:30-9:20.
- Tram to Montpellier-Comédie, then to Montpellier-Euromedecine, 1.60€.

 |---| Acceuil Pèlerin, Mme Marie-Thérèse Gallière, Montarnaud, 15€.
Monday 28/Dec/2016.
Hike #8.
From Montarnaud to Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert.
Montarnaud, early morning.
Montarnaud, the clock tower.












Where is Michel?
Still walking along the abandoned railroad and viaducts.
End of the dark 350m long tunnel.
Aniane.
Midday.
Picnic.
Pont du Diable on the Herault river, 11th Century.

Herault Canyon. 


8th Century Gellone Abbey, World Heritage site.





|---| Carmel Saint Joseph, 15€.
Tuesday 29/Dec/2016.
Hike #9.
From Saint Guilhem-le-Désert to Montpeyroux.


Cirque de l'Infernet. 
 Zoom on the Passage of Fenestrelles
(center part of the previous picture)




Castellas de Montpeyroux.


Le Barry, church.
Montpeyroux, vineyards.


 - Bus from Montpeyroux to Gignac, 12:35-13:00, Hérault Transport line 308, 0h25, gratis.
- Bus from Gignac to Montpellier-Mosson bus terminal, Hérault Transport line 381, 13:15-13:40, 0h25, 1.60€.
- Tram line 1, from Montpellier-Mosson to Montpellier-Port-Mariane.
- Carpooling from Montpellier-Port-Mariane to Aix-en-Provence Rotonde, 15:15-17:00, 12€

 |---| Home, Aix-en-Provence.


5th Section (9 days).

Saturday 01/Apr/2017.
Hike # 10 (start of the 5th section).
Montpeyroux to Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquière, 15.6km (13:50-17:00, 3h10).
Happy on the road again, just a little rainy today.
After a Blablacar ridefrom Aix to Montpellier, followed by a tram ride for Mosson,
now the 12:40 bus for Gignac, and then the 13:15 bus for Montpeyroux.

Montpeyroux, 13:50, dropped at the place where I left the Via Tolosana last December.
Arboras.

Descent to Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquière.
Still two kilometers to go, half an hour.
A welcome beer at Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquiere's only café, reopened that day.


Resting place for tonight, shared with one lady-pilgrim.

 |---| Gîte Communal, Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquiere, 16€.
Sunday 02/Apr/2017.
Hike #11.
Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquiere to Lodève, 13.7km (7:50-14:40, 6h50 incl picnic and visits).




Reaching Usclas-du-Bosc.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usclas-du-Bosc
Disc-shaped steles of  Usclas-du-Bosc, from middle ages pilgrim tombs.
http://www.etudesheraultaises.fr/wp-content/uploads/1980-4-01-les-steles-discoidales-d-usclas-du-bosc.pdf
Nearly at the Saint Michel de Gramont priory.
Saint Michel de Gramont priory.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Michel_de_Grandmont_Priory
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grandmontines
Saint Michel de Gramont priory church.
Coste Rouge Dolmen.
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fichier:Dolmen_Coste-Rouge_Soumont.jpg
Selfie.
Picnic and Siesta spot.
A less appealing picnic spot.
Lodève, cathedral garden.
Oops...
Recognition for Lodève's outstanding contribution during the wars of religion ???
Indeed, a strange "Etat d'Esprit" (mindset) in this declining town.
Many shops closing down.
Tonight's stay.
Villa Jeanne's lovely garden.

 |---| Villa Jeanne, Lodève, 25€ incl. breakfast. 
Monday 03/Apr/2017.
Hike #12.
Lodève to Lunas, 28km (8:10-15:20, 7h10 incl picnic and visits).
Villa Jeanne's lovely breakfast.
Leaving Lodève.




Picnic.
Joncels.
Joncels, the first of the two pilgrim hostels.
Joncels, the second, more luxury pilgrim hostel.
Joncels market place.
Lunas. 
Lunas, the day destination.
Lunas, tonight's hotel.

|---| Auberge Gourmande, Lunas. 
Tuesday 04/Apr/2017.
Hike #13.
Lunas to Mècle (Saint-Gervais-sur-Mare), 25.8km.
Le Bousquet d'Orb.
Sergeant Major Gerber from the Troops of Saint Tropez ?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Troops_of_St._Tropez
Saint Martin d'Orb.
Still 1366.4 km to go, 1.5 milion steps.
Aleppo pine processionary caterpillar chain.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pine_processionary
One of my two precious Shikoku pilgrimage stickers left here.
The other one, on the right, probably left by another nostalgic pilgrim.
Wild narcissus flowers, Easter is approaching !!!

Picnic.






Tonight's pilgrim hostel.

 |---| Les Amoureux du Chemin, Mècle, half board, 32€.
Wednesday 05/Apr/2017. 
Hike #14.
Mècle (Saint-Gervais-sur-Mare) to Murat-sur-Vèbre, 30.6km.
Reaching Saint Gervais.
Promising publicity, the café however closed.
That's pilgrims life.






Picnic.
Last steep slopes for the Cap de Faulhat (1081m),
the highest pre-Pyrenean pass of the Via Tolosana.
Passed the Cap de Faulhat the landscape suddenly changes.




|---| L'étape des Menhirs, Murat-sur-Vèbre, half board, 32€.
Thursday 06/Apr/2017. 
Hike #15.
Murat-sur-Vèbre to Salvatat-sur-Agoût, 21.1km.
Leaving the B&B.
















A convienient picnic place.
Picnic.
Auberge La Resse, run by Else, a Flemish-Belgian lady.
http://www.aubergelaresse.fr/en/

 |---| Auberge La Resse, Salvatat-sur-Agoût, half board, 43€.
Friday 07/Apr/2017. 
Hike #16.
Salvatat-sur-Agoût to Anglès, 20km (9:05-13:55, 4h50 incl picnic).






Menhir de Gieussels.


Picnic.



|---| Gîte d'Etape municipal Saint Jacques, Anglès, 10€/bed + 12€ dinner at Ancien Hotel de Sire, Anglès. 
Saturday 08/Apr/2017. 
Hike #17.
Anglès to Boissezon, 21km (8:20-13:25, 5h05 incl picnic). 














Picnic.
Boisezon.


Boisezon church embedding a watchtower.
Take-away dinner from the local restaurant "Deux Mousquetaires" (closed),12€.

 |---| Gîte d'Etape municipal Saint Jacques, 10€/room, Boissezon.
Sunday 09/Apr/2017.
Hike #18.
Boissezon to Castres, 16.8km.
Leaving the comfortable gîte.


Giant bamboos, 15 to 20m tall.






Lourdes grotto at Saint Hipolyte.

 Castres.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castres
Castres. Agout river.
Castres. Pilgrim monument (1999).
Castres. Saint James church and ancient pilgrim hospital... unfortunately closed.
Castres. Houses along the Agout river.
Castres.  The bishop palace garden, 17th Century, designed by Le Nôtre.
http://www.tourisme-castres.fr/contenu_en.php?nom_page=parcs_jardins
Castres' railway station.

- Blablacar car-pooling from Castres to Aix-en-Provence, 21€.

 |---| Home, Aix-en-Provence.
CLICK HERE for the next segments of the Via Tolosana pilgrimage
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