PANAMA.
22/Feb/2016 to 17/Mar/2016.
Itinerary :
Panama-City – Boca Chica – Guadalupe (Los Quetzales trail to Boquete & Mt Baru volcano trek) – David – Valle de la Mina (Lost and Found) – Aguadulce (Nata & Penonome & La Pintada) – Panama-City – Panama Canal – Portobelo – Gatun – San-Blas Islands – Cartagena (Colombia)
22/Feb/2016 to 17/Mar/2016.
Itinerary :
Panama-City – Boca Chica – Guadalupe (Los Quetzales trail to Boquete & Mt Baru volcano trek) – David – Valle de la Mina (Lost and Found) – Aguadulce (Nata & Penonome & La Pintada) – Panama-City – Panama Canal – Portobelo – Gatun – San-Blas Islands – Cartagena (Colombia)
1 € = 1.09 Balboa (Panamanian Balboa).
1 US$ = 1 Balboa (both currencies are tied).
1 Balboa = 0.92 € = 1 US$
Panamanian Time = European time - 6h.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama
- 04:50 - 05:20 Shuttle bus from Aix-en-Provence to Marseille-Provence Airport
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
- 04:50 - 05:20 Shuttle bus from Aix-en-Provence to Marseille-Provence Airport
- 06:55 - 08:35 Air Nostrum flight IB8913 from Marseille to Madrid, 1h40. *
- 3h35 transit in Madrid
- 12:10 - 16:50 Iberia flight IB6361 from Madrid to Panama, 10h40. *
* Those flights, plus the return flights from Bogota to Marseille, 285€ (using a 500€ VP coupon).
Flight announcement for the Marseille-Madrid section.
Marseille-Madrid.
Flight announcement for the Madrid-Panama section.
Healty economy-class lunch during the Madrid-Panama flight.
Carton boxed breakfast.
Panama-City airport, purchase of my local SIM card.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Tuesday 23/Feb/2016.
Panama-City to BOCA CHICA journey.
Panama-City to BOCA CHICA journey.
- Bus from Panama-City Gran Terminal (Albrook Mall) towards David, until the Panamericana junction with the Route 407 to Horconcitos, 08:15-15:35; 13$.
- Colectivo from there to Boca Chica harbour; 12$.
- Boat from Boca Chica to the Lodge on the Peninsula; 30$.
|---| Pacific Bay Resort, Boca Chica, Chiriqui, Panama (1st night).
Wednesday 24/Feb/2016.
BOCA CHICA.
|---| Pacific Bay Resort, Boca Chica, Chiriqui, Panama (2nd night).
Thursday 25/Feb/2016.
|---| Roxy Fishing Club, Boca Chica, Chiriqui, Panama (1st night), 88$/double/night.
Friday 26/Feb/2016.
Boca Chica.
|---| Roxy Fishing Club, Boca Chica, Chiriqui, Panama (2nd night), 88$/double/night.
Saturday 27/Feb/2016.
Boca Chica to Guadalupe journey.
|---| Los Quetzales eco Lodge, Guadalupe, Cerro Punta, Chiriqui, Panama, 39.95$/night (1st night).
Sunday 28/Feb/2016.
Three Cascades trail (2h guided rainforest hiking tour).
Village life.
The hotel lobby.
|---| Los Quetzales eco Lodge, Guadalupe, Cerro Punta, Chiriqui, Panama, 39.95$/night (2nd night).
Monday 29/Feb/2016.
Sedero Los Quetzales (Guadalupe to Boquete hiking trail).
Lonely Planet writes:
|---| Los Quetzales eco Lodge, Guadalupe, Cerro Punta, Chiriqui, Panama, 39.95$/night (3rd night).
Tuesday 01/Mar/2016.
Here he is (the Quetzual).
|---| Los Quetzales eco Lodge, Guadalupe, Cerro Punta, Chiriqui, Panama, 39.95$/night (4th night).
Wednesday 02/Mar/2016.
Climbing Mt Baru volcano.
The Rough Guide writes:
The unremarkable haul up Volcano Baru (3474m), Panama's highest point, is rewarded at the summit, which on good day boasts a truly breathtaking panorama of the Pacific and the Caribbean, both dotted with a miriad of islands. ...
To maximize your chance of a clear view, you should attempt some, or all of the climb at night - for which you''ll need a guide - to arrive at dawn.
The 13.5km ascent from the small park office takes 4-6 hours.
Accessing the summit of Volcano Baru from the western side is daunting though potentially satisfying prospect, clambering across overgrown lava flows and navigating round precipitous tors, where you should look out for the spectacular black and white hawl eagle soaring above.
I made the hike with mountain guide Ito from Guadalupe. To obtain a better price, 35$, I joined a group of American students. Then I discovered there were 20 of them plus 3 guides. We were soon separated into the 'slower' and the 'faster'.
The hike started at 6:00 and we ended at 19:00, the other participants finished 1.5h later. Only few of abandoned.
The summit was reached at 13:00 and one hour was spent at the top.
It took nearly as long for the ascent (7h) as for the descent (5h) because of the technical difficulties: wild forest, moving volcanic sand, giant ravines, unstable rocks...
http://www.summitpost.org/cerro-punta-bar-west-route/495882
|---| Los Quetzales eco Lodge, Guadalupe, Cerro Punta, Chiriqui, Panama, 39.95$/night (5th night).
Thursday 03/Mar/2016.
Guadalupe to DAVID journey.
|---| Hostal La Libertad, Pedregal, David, Chiriqui, Panama, 27$/private AC room.
Friday 04/Mar/2016.
Guided Pedregal mangrove kayaking.
|---| Hostal La Libertad, Pedregal, David, Chiriqui, Panama, 27$/private AC room.
Saturday 05/Mar/2016.
Sailing to the islands.
GPS is not useful this time, even no name is mentioned.
|---| Hostal La Libertad, Pedregal, David, Chiriqui, Panama, 27$/private AC room.
Sunday 06/Mar/2016.
David to Valle de la Mina journey.
|---| Lost and Found hostel, km 42 Fortuna Road, Valle de la Mina, Chiriqui, Panama.
MONDAY 07/MAR/2016.
CELESTINE WATERFALL.
|---| Lost and Found hostel, km 42 Fortuna Road, Valle de la Mina, Chiriqui, Panama. 33$ for private room.
Tuesday 08/Mar/2016.
Lost and Found to Aguadulce journey.
|---| Hotel Interamericano, Aguadulce, Cocle, Panama, 17.60$/room.
Wednesday 09/Mar/2016.
Aguadulce to Panama-City journey.
Penenomé, capital of the Socle province, 1h from Aguadulce.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Thursday 10/Mar/201.
Panama-City Casco Viejo.
The Canal museum.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Friday 11/Mar/2016.
Panama Canal Railway.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama_Canal_Railway
Colon.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Saturday 12/Mar/2016.
Panama Canal, Gatun locks.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Sunday 13/Mar/2016.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Monday 14/Mar/2016 to Friday 18/Mar/2016.
Sailing through the San Blas archipelago to Cartagena, Columbia, 5 days.
1st day.
Hugo kindly awaiting the four wheel drive taxi with me,
announced between 5:00 and 6:00, picked-up at 6:15
The catamaran 'Santana'.
Curiously awaiting the other passengers.
Kuna people bringing food provision.
Snorkeling place around a shipwreck.
Sunset.
Buying the catch of the day for a BBQ.
Lazy inhabitants.
Having the BBQ with the other passengers.
With a coconut juice, freshly cut from the tree,
and opened by machete.
Some add a little drop of rhum to it.
Snorkeling time.
A trumpet fish.
A monkey.
180 degrees panoramic.
Selfie time.
A flying fish landed on the deck.
Spanish fortifications entering the bay of Cartagena.
Skyline of Cartagena.
|---| 'Santana' catamaran.
http://www.sailing-santana.com
(Click to EXIT)
- Colectivo from there to Boca Chica harbour; 12$.
- Boat from Boca Chica to the Lodge on the Peninsula; 30$.
Lunch stop.
Young mothers with children.
Two seats, shared by 2 adults and 5 children.
Dropped at the junction for Horconcitos.
Exactly one minute later, the collectivo pops up.
Boca Chica harbour.
Notice the iguana on the rooftop!
|---| Pacific Bay Resort, Boca Chica, Chiriqui, Panama (1st night).
Wednesday 24/Feb/2016.
BOCA CHICA.
|---| Pacific Bay Resort, Boca Chica, Chiriqui, Panama (2nd night).
Thursday 25/Feb/2016.
Crossing a wild sea for 25 long minutes
(wet backpacks when disembarking).
(wet backpacks when disembarking).
Returning to Boca Chica town,
After having spent two nights at the scary Pacific Bay Resort.
After having spent two nights at the scary Pacific Bay Resort.
Boca Chica's supermarket.
The guest-bikes at Roxies hotel.
Taking the boat from Boca Chica harbour
to hotel-restaurant Boca Brave, 3$ trip.
to hotel-restaurant Boca Brave, 3$ trip.
Boarding at Boca Brava restaurant for lunch,
Boca Brava island, across Boca Chica (3$ sailing per person, one way).
The start of a nice fishermans lunch.
The restaurant, ovelooking the archipelago.
A late afternoon hike to Boca Brava's beaches.
Sunset.
|---| Roxy Fishing Club, Boca Chica, Chiriqui, Panama (1st night), 88$/double/night.
Friday 26/Feb/2016.
Boca Chica.
Horseback riding morning.
Guided by Jonathan, grandson of the hacienda.
A selfie, Laurence in the background.
My horse, Snoopy, watching the road signs.
With my partner, Snoopy,
well-listening and courageous horse.
Fishermen cleaning their catch of the day,
also feeding the pelicans.
On the roof of the Boca Brave hotel-restaurant.
well-listening and courageous horse.
also feeding the pelicans.
|---| Roxy Fishing Club, Boca Chica, Chiriqui, Panama (2nd night), 88$/double/night.
Saturday 27/Feb/2016.
Boca Chica to Guadalupe journey.
The David to Cerro Punta bus, waiting at David's bus terminal.
The Cerro Punta to Guadalupe bus arriving at Guadalupe.
Map of Guadalupe.
Many strawberry and cream stalls.
Until now, this is my preferred one.
The hotel for the next two nights.
Sunday 28/Feb/2016.
Three Cascades trail (2h guided rainforest hiking tour).
Each morning, the hotel organizes a complimentary
hiking tour in the surrounding rainforest.
Today I am the only interested guest.
My personal guide.
The first cascade.
Second Cascade.
Third cascade.
Hummingbird (Colibri).
Wild orchids.
Village life.
Vampires ?
Dracula's farm !
An Orchid farm, with reference to the Dracula Orchid.
Lunch, a hamburger with corn chips,
the local wine is made from raspberries and sugar cane.
the local wine is made from raspberries and sugar cane.
The map for tomorrow's full day hike,
drawn for me by the restaurant owner, also guide.
As in China, people here seem to like chicken claws.
Fresa con crema, mmm.
The village of Guadalupe.
Green meadows with large cattle and horse farms.
The hotel lobby.|---| Los Quetzales eco Lodge, Guadalupe, Cerro Punta, Chiriqui, Panama, 39.95$/night (2nd night).
Monday 29/Feb/2016.
Sedero Los Quetzales (Guadalupe to Boquete hiking trail).
Lonely Planet writes:
One of Panama's most beautiful trails runs between Cerro Punta and Boquete, crisscrossing Río Caldera. You can hike from either direction, but west to east offers more downhill: the town of Cerro Punta is almost 1000m higher than Boquete. The 8km route takes between four and six hours. Getting to and from the trailhead takes another couple of hours either side (about 23km in total). A guide is recommended.
A 4WD taxi can take you to the trailhead on the Cerro Punta side for about US$25 per person; a collectivo (shared taxi) will cost US$6. Taxi drivers know the area as Respingo. Road conditions may be very poor due to landslides. The trail is 5km uphill from the main road and 2km from the last paved road. When you exit the trail, it’s another 8km along the road to Boquete, though you may be able to catch a taxi along the road. In total, the hike is about 23km, so plan accordingly if you intend to walk the length of the trail.
Take only the bare essentials with you on the walk, and a little cash for a good meal and/or lodging when you arrive in Boquete.
The Quetzal bird, holy grail for birdwatchers
(this picture is stolen from the internet,
you'll find my not-as-good picture later in the blog).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quetzal
you'll find my not-as-good picture later in the blog).
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quetzal
The ranger station at the start of the trail, 5$ fee.
Reached by a 5$ taxi ride + a 2km long gravel road ascend.
A lot of Quetzual sound, but none seen.
I got pain in my neck from searching the bird,
and then gave it up.
and then gave it up.
One of the marvelous lookouts, a 'Mirador'.
A scary river crossing...
Some river crossings are more comfortable.
Picnic.
The ranger station at the end of the trail.
Boquete and Guadalupe are not interconnected by road.
One must return by a 'School Bus' to David, 1h10 ride,
and then the collectivo to Guadalupe, another 2h20.
|---| Los Quetzales eco Lodge, Guadalupe, Cerro Punta, Chiriqui, Panama, 39.95$/night (3rd night).
Tuesday 01/Mar/2016.
Guided morning tour, organized by the lodge,
included with the room price.
Nine participants today.
The hiking goes to a waterfall high in the rain forest.
The guide immediately spotted a Quetzual for us.
The waterfall, reached after an easy muddy hike.
Huge, huge trees.
In the middle of the forest, this UFO dome.
Annual rainfall is 5m per year here
(for reference, Belgium gets "only" 80cm of rain).
Four hundred people in this village, four churches too.
Bye Bye, Guadalupe !
I'll leave tomorrow.
|---| Los Quetzales eco Lodge, Guadalupe, Cerro Punta, Chiriqui, Panama, 39.95$/night (4th night).
Wednesday 02/Mar/2016.
Climbing Mt Baru volcano.
The Rough Guide writes:
The unremarkable haul up Volcano Baru (3474m), Panama's highest point, is rewarded at the summit, which on good day boasts a truly breathtaking panorama of the Pacific and the Caribbean, both dotted with a miriad of islands. ...
To maximize your chance of a clear view, you should attempt some, or all of the climb at night - for which you''ll need a guide - to arrive at dawn.
The 13.5km ascent from the small park office takes 4-6 hours.
Accessing the summit of Volcano Baru from the western side is daunting though potentially satisfying prospect, clambering across overgrown lava flows and navigating round precipitous tors, where you should look out for the spectacular black and white hawl eagle soaring above.
I made the hike with mountain guide Ito from Guadalupe. To obtain a better price, 35$, I joined a group of American students. Then I discovered there were 20 of them plus 3 guides. We were soon separated into the 'slower' and the 'faster'.
The hike started at 6:00 and we ended at 19:00, the other participants finished 1.5h later. Only few of abandoned.
The summit was reached at 13:00 and one hour was spent at the top.
It took nearly as long for the ascent (7h) as for the descent (5h) because of the technical difficulties: wild forest, moving volcanic sand, giant ravines, unstable rocks...
A first stop, once we could switch off the headlights.
There, we were divided into the slower and the faster hikers.
There, we were divided into the slower and the faster hikers.
Moving sand, difficult to keep equilibrium.
First to reach the summit cross!
Unfortunately with a cloudy sky,
impossible to view both oceans at the same time.
Exhausted.
|---| Los Quetzales eco Lodge, Guadalupe, Cerro Punta, Chiriqui, Panama, 39.95$/night (5th night).
Thursday 03/Mar/2016.
Guadalupe to DAVID journey.
Pasta, properly cooked by the kind Italian Hostal owners.
David, cathedral.
David, cathedral.
David, main street.
David, celebration cakes.
Fresh fish for tonight's dinner,
catches from hostal guests.
catches from hostal guests.
|---| Hostal La Libertad, Pedregal, David, Chiriqui, Panama, 27$/private AC room.
Friday 04/Mar/2016.
Guided Pedregal mangrove kayaking.
GPS map of the mangrove delta.
Boa Constrictor.
'Playing' with the animal.
Apnea-harpoon fishermen.
Returning to the little marina of Pedregal David,
after some four hours of kayaking in the mangrove labyrinth
(20$ with the private guide).
Delicious lobster dinner.
Saturday 05/Mar/2016.
Sailing to the islands.
Dropped on a beach of an island, somewhere.
Greeting the island owners.
The cattle, interested to learn more about the 'gringo' (me).
Looking for a quite beach,
this one seemed to answer my needs.
My private beach.
Back to the Hostal, dinner.
|---| Hostal La Libertad, Pedregal, David, Chiriqui, Panama, 27$/private AC room.
Sunday 06/Mar/2016.
David to Valle de la Mina journey.
Leaving Corado and Cynthia's hostel.
ATM in David.
Sardine-can filled collectivo from David to Changuinola.
Beautiful landscapes.
Dropped by the collective from David
at km 42 along the Fortuna road.
It takes a10 to 15 minutes walk uphill with the backpack
to reach the famous 'Lost and Found' hostel.
The Hostal organizes a lot of hiking and excursions.
Still time to visit the Gualaca canyon,
and to take a deep jump into the river.
|---| Lost and Found hostel, km 42 Fortuna Road, Valle de la Mina, Chiriqui, Panama.
MONDAY 07/MAR/2016.
Impossible to reach the Celestine waterfall today...
Waiting for nearly two hours, three overfull collectivos passed by and for this one, it took 10 minutes to finally decide to end their working day.
Back to the hostel, to participate to their 'Treasure Hunt'.
First spot of the treasure hunt, a lookout.
Second spot of the treasure hunt,
a giant beard tree.
A most lovely tree !
Picnic along the river.
Instructions vaguely pointing to the cave,
some clues require more deciphering.
some clues require more deciphering.
(at each new spot, instructions are hidden in plastic tubes).
Last spot of the treasure hunt,
a natural cave.
An ancient petroglyph? Graphiti?
After five hours in the wood, last activity of the treasure hunt :
assembly of a story read from petroglyphs.
Sunset, followed by a little ceremony,
celebrating the two succesful treasure hunters of the day.
|---| Lost and Found hostel, km 42 Fortuna Road, Valle de la Mina, Chiriqui, Panama. 33$ for private room.
Tuesday 08/Mar/2016.
Lost and Found to Aguadulce journey.
Nearest hotel to the bus stop along the interamericana.
Route 66 style.
Route 66 style confirmed by the room and the pool.
Once more confirmed by the restaurant.
Nata, Basilica Menor Santiago Apostol,
the oldest church of the Americas.
Nata, Basilica Menor Santiago Apostol.
Nata, Basilica Menor Santiago Apostol.
San Juan de Dios, patron of Nata, removed from his niche
(paraded in procession in town today, his saint day).
|---| Hotel Interamericano, Aguadulce, Cocle, Panama, 17.60$/room.
Wednesday 09/Mar/2016.
Aguadulce to Panama-City journey.
Penenomé, capital of the Socle province, 1h from Aguadulce.
Penonomé, San Juan Bautista cathedral.
Penonomé, cathedral.
Penonomé, confusion around the bus terminal.
La Pintada, a tranquil village 20 minutes from Penenomé.
La Pintada.
La Pintada, Restaurant.
La Pintada, lunch.
La Pintada, famous for the Sombrero Pintao.
It took me some time to find La Pintada's cigar factory.
Cigar assembly.
The lady running the factory.
Collectivo from La Pintada back to Penonomé.
The dashboard instruments missing,
or anyhow completely hidden by religious pictures.
The dashboard instruments missing,
or anyhow completely hidden by religious pictures.
Bus from Penonome to Panama-City,
with a huge TV screen in front of the bus,
preventing the bus driver from properly watching the road.
Panama-City, Albrook bus terminal.
Thursday 10/Mar/201.
Panama-City Casco Viejo.
The french embassy.
Che Guevara's preferred restaurant, the 'Coca Cola café'.
The fish market, Mercado de Mariscos.
Lunch at the stalls around the fish market.
The Canal museum.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Friday 11/Mar/2016.
Panama Canal Railway.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama_Canal_Railway
Colon.
Washington Hotel.
Portobelo.
Lunch restaurant.
Cooks awaiting the orders.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Saturday 12/Mar/2016.
Panama Canal, Gatun locks.
The canal has three successive locks at Miraflores (Pacific),
and 3 successive locks at Gatun (Caribian, Atlantic),
The 'Glovis Crystal', Majuro, Marshall Islands.
as any 'Panamax' sized ship pulled by six locos :
at each side, one to pull the ship,
as any 'Panamax' sized ship pulled by six locos :
at each side, one to pull the ship,
plus two to avoid the ship hurting the quay.
The 'Glovis Crystal' leaving the last lock chamber,
now sailing on its own into the Caribian sea.
Cost of such a transfer 250000$.
Cost of such a transfer 250000$.
The 'Hanjin Iwagi', Panama, properly positioned.
Typically the margin between ship and quay is 60cm.
The width of the present locks is 33.5m.
The width of the present locks is 33.5m.
Margin is just 60 cm !
Also the seamen take pictures.
Loco 51, the Pastis team one.
An exciting computer controlled job !
The new locks, being built by Vinci.
The width of the locks increase from 33.5m to 55m.
The width of the locks increase from 33.5m to 55m.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Sunday 13/Mar/2016.
|---| Hugo and Sylviane, Panama-City, Panama.
Monday 14/Mar/2016 to Friday 18/Mar/2016.
Sailing through the San Blas archipelago to Cartagena, Columbia, 5 days.
1st day.
announced between 5:00 and 6:00, picked-up at 6:15
Passengers arriving one by one.
2nd day.
and opened by machete.
Third day.
4th and 5th day,
a 40h crossing from the San Blas archipel to Cartagena.
International waters.
Crossing a wild sea for 40 hours.
http://www.sailing-santana.com
(Click to EXIT)
